Friday, February 26, 2010

The Dempster, Day 1

After our meeting with Sergio we pressed on. Soon the road started up into more mountains and we knew we were in for an amazing drive. The sun struggled through the clowds and blowing snow for most of the day, but eventually came through in the afternoon. The trees got smaller and smaller as we progressed, and the tree line dropped lower and lower. Any rise at all and the trees would disappear, only the occasional shrub.

 

  

 

We stopped for lunch at what must be a summer camp grounds, the boys hut provided a perfect shelter from the constant wind. We cooked up some curry and had it on tortilla shells, delicious! The temperature had dropped to 25 below, and the wind chill was making things a bit more difficult. We decided it was time to cover the grill of the Jeep so we took out a bit of welding blanket we'd taken for this purpose, cut out two headlight holes, and secured it under the hood.


 On we went. The mountains didn't end. We drove through valleys, along streams, cliffs, and avalanch areas. The peaks were pure white, and made an erie backdrop as they all but disappeared into the overcast sky.


Again we climbed into the mountains, only this time there was no protection from surrounding peeks and the wind howled across the road. Snow drifts cut across the road and would explode in the rear view mirrors as we drove through them. We passed the snow plow stopped on the side of the road, men working on it in the bitter cold. On we forged.


Gas light. Shoot. We drove on through the worst of it, but eventually we had to stop. We donned our parkas, ski pants, and goggles and managed to fill up in record time. After that we were out of the  mountains and into the hills, where a forest of stubby snow covered trees grew, no higher than six feet tall.


With Pete fast asleep in the passenger seat, we crested another hill and arrived at Eagle Plains, a small service station, hotel, bar, lodge, etc built by the government for 3.5 million dollars back in '79. Not sure if we would camp or not, we went inside to inquire. Straight into the bar we walked, saw the Canada vs. Russia hockey game on tv, and promptly ordered a beer and dinner and watched the game. Needless to say we got ourselves a hotel room that night and had a fitful sleep!

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Belgium Skiier

Just wanted to make a quick not.

We have started up the Dempster Highway after leaving Dawson City where we stayed last night. And not more than 3kms up the road we came across a man on cross country skis towing a sled.

Sergio, is from Belgium and makes a trip somewhere in the world for 4 weeks of travel. The last trip he made to Canada he made a long trip via dog sled. This trip thou he opted for skis so he could enjoy more solitude. His sled has the name of his cheese shop on the side "Maison Du Fromage". In the sled he carries enough supplies for 30 days; and you guys all thought we were crazy, Sergio can only cover about 20km on a good day!!!!! It is over 500 km from Dawson to Eagles Plane the next community on the highway!!!!

What a great start to our Dempster experience.

We have decided as well to make a point of trying to meet more people and hopefully share stories of your mutual experiences of the north.

And of course tell all of you all about them.


Tuesday, February 23, 2010

The Cambell Part II

Woke up this morning nice and toasty after 10 hours of very good sleep. Its always tough to get out of the tent when its still dark and you are actually warm in your sleeping bag! But get up we did, around 6:00. I cooked some grub while Pete rearranged the truck in an attempt to better accomodate my 6'4 frame in the front seats. We got things squared away and after about 20 minutes of getting the Jeep up the rest of the hill we'd come down yesterday we were on our way. Again another gorgeous day after the fog lifted. The road was great and we got some good shots of it for all to see. The jerry cans came in handy again as we had to top up an hour or two down the road.

 

  


On we went and took the turnoff to Ross River where we filled up all the tanks and headed to the start of the Canol Road. After hearing so much about this road we really wanted to head down it, but learned that all the old equipment was near the NWT boarder, quite a distance. We crossed the Pelly River anyways and drove a couple hundred metres until it turned into nothing but snowmobile track, passable but extremely slow. Slightly disappointed, but knowing that we needed to make some distance on our ultimate goal, we turned around and got back on the Cambell.

 

We next arrived at Faro where we drove around looking for a lunch spot. Its a very odd town, somewhere between a ghost town and a thriving small community. Its there because of the zinc mine, but that has been closed since '98. Houses and appartment blocks are boarded up and driveways are unplowed, yet the parks and facilities are quite impressive, though mostly closed. We did manage to find an open restaurant after several false tries, and had a decent lunch. Afterwards we took a drive up to the minesite, which, as we found out, is still employing people to do water treatment and other environmental work; didn't sound like it would be reopening. I asked the security guard if they had any P&H shovels but she just gave me a blank stare... Apparently not!



After the very uninformative security guard turned us away from the gate we headed back to town to fill up and carry on. Having not seen a gas pump, we enquired. at the hardware store and received a toothless chuckle in response, "you have to go to Ross River for that!" Its only about a 100 km round trip!


We figured we had more than enough fuel so we carried on. The rest of the Cambell was mostly two lanes and paved, quite civilized really! We were lucky enough to see a linx cross the road and pause long enough for a good look, beautiful creature.
We fueled up at Carmacks and are now well on our way to Dawson City where we hope to find a motel and a shower (going on 3 days now...) Who knows what we'll find though, may have to camp again! We've been getting intermittent signals so have enjoyed reading everyones comments on the blog and on the forum.
Well my thumbs are killing me from typing on this Blackberry so I'm signing off, till next time...
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

Oops

I see that I just posted the last one 4 times... Guess I got a little carried away! However we were able to read a few of the comments as we go in and out of service areas here, and just wanted to say that we love reading them! Thanks guys, keep them coming... Pete and I have run out of things to say to each other and enjoy the outside stimulus! Ha ha!
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry

The Cambell Highway

The Cambell started off paved, then went to gravel, and then turned to a single lane. We had a bit of a scare after encountering the first semi barreling down at us from the other direction. Pete had to jam on the breaks and literally squeeze up against the snow bank on the side of the road. After the first encounter we were a little white in the knuckle going around any corners, of which there were many!

The scenery was breathtaking, a gorgeous sunny day with pristine white snow covering the mountains. We drove along a wide valley passing over creeks and alongside lakes. Around 3:00 we came to a summer camp site and pulled off the highway and down a snowy road which led to the lake shore. After some shenanigans at the shore which involved deep snow, a Jeep, a few shovels, and about a quarter tank of gas, we donned the snowshoes for a hike.

 

  

  

 

The sun cast long shadows across the lake as it approached the mountain overlooking our position. Pete and I walked straight out across the lake with the intention of reaching the otherside, however half way across we chickened out and turned around after encountering a section of slush! I'm sure it would have been fine but we were an aweful long way from anywhere, not least of all the shore.

 

  

  

  

 

We turned around and walked back to the side we came from and proceeded to walk south around the next point where we basked in the setting sun and munched on some very patriotic "Believe" Snickers bars!

With the sun setting and the cold coming in we decided to make an early camp. We moved the Jeep up the hill a ways to ensure we wouldn't be stuck there permanently and started camp. Pete started a fire and I heated up some delicious pasta sauce and noodles. It was another clear night but after dinner the cold got to us and we turned in to the tent. Fearing a very cold night, I donned a large percentage of my body weight in extra clothing and, after struggling with chords and zippers, promptly fell asleep!

PS. It was 7:00...
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BC to the Cambell Highway

We woke up this morning a little colder than we would have liked, and uncomfortable... Have to sort out the pillow situation. We were up at 6 and packed up and on our way by 7:20. The clouds soon parted and the glorious sunshine appeared and would stay with us all day. At these latitudes the morning and evening sun seem to last forever, making for some great photography. We soon came across a herd of buffalo (first sighting of the trip even thou we have been seeing signs for them since fort smith. They were totally agree and unmoved by our presence so we were able to hang out and take a bunch of shots in the morning light. I was even up on the roof of the jeep, (felt like a true safari). We saw a few more herds today as well as a few more moose.

 

  

  

  


We had a peaceful drive up to Watson Lake, there really is no traffic up here this time of year. The odd semi or pickup but other than that we are on our own. We made it into Watson Lake around 10:30, and filled up with gas and tightened up the bolts on the roof rack (it was starting to rattle loose). Before leaving Watson Lake we stopped for a photo shoot at the "sign post forest".

 

  

 


Then we finally started up the Robert Cambell Highway! This one of the things on Sam and I's checklist of things to accomplish on this trip.


We are about to lose reception so I am ending this one here and will finish it off when we get service again.


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Sunday, February 21, 2010

Fort Providence

We arrived in Fort Providence around 7 last night after crossing over the Mackenzie River Ice Bridge; scenes from ice road truckers flashing through our heads. We made our way through the bustling metropolis to our friend Kari’s house who we both know from high school but neither has seen for almost 9 years!

Fort Providence has a population of 800, and it just so happened to be hosting their yearly hockey tournament this weekend. Five teams from the surrounding region came to play, though by the time we arrived at least one of them had been kicked out of their hotel, due to unruly behaviour.

We headed straight out to catch the second period of the fort Smith Playing Fort Simpson in the local arena, standing room only! By the end of the period Fort Simpson (the team we were told we were to cheer for) was firmly in the lead with a score of 4-1; so we headed for the Snowshoe Hotel to have a beer and catch up. As the only local source of beer, their off sale price comes in a little steep at $40 buck for a 12 pack. Obviously not a cheap pastime!

After a beer and some blaring music we headed back to Kari’s to get ready for the dance taking place that evening. The entire town and there friends from surrounding communities had come down for the event, minus the children.

The Dance was held at the community hall that is attached to the hockey arena. A local celebrity Jonny (?) and his band were playing live country music and the whole place was up on the dance floor, two-stepping along. Pete was kept busy by Kari’s mum and her friends dancing away most of the night. While I was in the bathroom with “Buddy” doing shots of 83, the local drink of choice. Pretty solid night!!!! A little too solid as we had planned to be out of town by sunrise…….oh well that’s what this trip is all about…  The dance ended with a final song “Nahani Hey Hey” a Jonny original where everyone joined hands and danced in a large circle, a very cool experience to be included in.

 
  


This morning we woke up after a comfortable night indoors. I was able to score a real bed, while Pete took up residence on the living room couch. We ate some oatmeal, boiled water for tea, took a few pictures in the daylight with Kari to commemorate our visit. We then made our way back across the ice bridge out of town.

A big THANK YOU to Kari and her Mum for their hospitality and welcoming us into their amazing community. Their house is amazing, walking out the front door you sand no more than 20 meters from the bank of the Mackenzie River. In the evening looking up you are greeted by the sight of Orion sparkling above in the crisp northern sky… simply stunning!!!